The UK's Finest Independent Forum for Shooters and Gun Owners. Est 2010.

Dougan wrote:Thanks for the link Mr Smith

According to some of the info on the link it says that you shim the rear ring (correct?), and that 0.01" should give approximately 1 min of elevation - As I'm looking to gain about 70 MOA that would be 0.7 of an inch (!)...as it's separate rings, surely that would put the scope at such an angle that it would only be held by the edges of the rings? Do you have to line the rings with something, or do you graduate the shimming to match the slope? (Btw: I can't use a one piece mount due to loading).

Thanks also for the material advice - I haven't got any film, but have got coke cans.....though due to the problem of the extreme angle, I may explore other materials.

From what you guys have said, it may have to be a compromise of shimming to get me to 200 yards, and then using mil-dots from there...

http://www.deben.com/hawke-adjustable-r ... rings.html

Don't know if these are any good.












Aye does seem a lot you need to move your scope i certainly wouldn't want to do that.
Just had a wee nosey and it seems Hawke do adjustable mounts,someone may know if these are any good.

I choose a distance to zero at that I will always use as zero, as an example I took the M65A out a short while ago, I had fitted a 12x56 S&B which is graduated in Mils instead of MOA however I do my calculations in MOA to find zero.

So zero the rifle with 5 shots so it is in the V at your chosen distance, I was at 200m. Now make a note of the setting and count down the number of clicks to mechanical bottom, let assume it was 56 clicks. Wind back up 56 clicks and shoot again to confirm the zero. Pack the rifle away.

Working in MOA as an example with a 1/4MOA click turret I need to shim the back ring by 14 minutes which for a 'scope with rings at 5" centres is .02036" - I would find a shim at .020" and place it under the rear ring then wind the elevation drum to zero and head off to the 200m point again and check where my zero is now. There are a few considerations, if it freezing cold MV's will be down so you could be a full minute above zero on a warm day so allow for this, also if you pack the rear ring excessively you will need to lap the rings to prevent distorting the tube, if you are using Optilocks or similar it is not so much of a problem. Once upon a time I would machine shims for front and back at the required taper however this is quite a faff to do.

So now I can wind the elevation drum down until it stops and know I am on my mechanical zero or ideally a click under it and then count back up to get my drop for say 600 yards.

S'easy tongueout

phaedra1106 wrote:O/T Sorry,

But ..... speaking of things made out of Coke Cans . . . . .

Adam, did you get a chance to look at the 9mm when it came back?

Nope it just came as we were leaving, still in the box.

ovenpaa wrote:I choose a distance to zero at that I will always use as zero, as an example I took the M65A out a short while ago, I had fitted a 12x56 S&B which is graduated in Mils instead of MOA however I do my calculations in MOA to find zero.

So zero the rifle with 5 shots so it is in the V at your chosen distance, I was at 200m. Now make a note of the setting and count down the number of clicks to mechanical bottom, let assume it was 56 clicks. Wind back up 56 clicks and shoot again to confirm the zero. Pack the rifle away.

Working in MOA as an example with a 1/4MOA click turret I need to shim the back ring by 14 minutes which for a 'scope with rings at 5" centres is .02036" - I would find a shim at .020" and place it under the rear ring then wind the elevation drum to zero and head off to the 200m point again and check where my zero is now. There are a few considerations, if it freezing cold MV's will be down so you could be a full minute above zero on a warm day so allow for this, also if you pack the rear ring excessively you will need to lap the rings to prevent distorting the tube, if you are using Optilocks or similar it is not so much of a problem. Once upon a time I would machine shims for front and back at the required taper however this is quite a faff to do.

So now I can wind the elevation drum down until it stops and know I am on my mechanical zero or ideally a click under it and then count back up to get my drop for say 600 yards.

S'easy tongueout

Thanks for the info - I'm finally understanding what previous threads about shimming etc were about...

...S'easier with a fully kitted workshop razz

mr smith wrote:

Dougan wrote:Thanks for the link Mr Smith

According to some of the info on the link it says that you shim the rear ring (correct?), and that 0.01" should give approximately 1 min of elevation - As I'm looking to gain about 70 MOA that would be 0.7 of an inch (!)...as it's separate rings, surely that would put the scope at such an angle that it would only be held by the edges of the rings? Do you have to line the rings with something, or do you graduate the shimming to match the slope? (Btw: I can't use a one piece mount due to loading).

Thanks also for the material advice - I haven't got any film, but have got coke cans.....though due to the problem of the extreme angle, I may explore other materials.

From what you guys have said, it may have to be a compromise of shimming to get me to 200 yards, and then using mil-dots from there...

http://www.deben.com/hawke-adjustable-r ... rings.html

Don't know if these are any good.












Aye does seem a lot you need to move your scope i certainly wouldn't want to do that.
Just had a wee nosey and it seems Hawke do adjustable mounts,someone may know if these are any good.

That looks like a possible solution ...I'll search to see if you can get those with a dog-leg on one mount...

Dougan wrote:Thanks for the info - I'm finally understanding what previous threads about shimming etc were about...

...S'easier with a fully kitted workshop razz

As Christel pointed out, a coke can or similar and some kitchen scissors is all you need to make some shims. A vernier helps to measure the thickness of the material.

Just been thinking.......... .........yeah yeah i know.
My problem is with my 10/22,would i be better trying to shim the rail attached to the reciever rather than between the mount and the scope so as not to cause any damage to the scope.

Mr Smith, that works as well assuming you can get the rail off as they tend to loctite the rail screws, use a hair dryer to soften the adhesive and you should be good to go.

ovenpaa wrote:

Dougan wrote:Thanks for the info - I'm finally understanding what previous threads about shimming etc were about...

...S'easier with a fully kitted workshop razz

As Christel pointed out, a coke can or similar and some kitchen scissors is all you need to make some shims. A vernier helps to measure the thickness of the material.

Yeah but the height of the shim at the rear (don't forget I need another 70+ MOA) means that 2 shims, one small and one tall, with matching back to front slopes would need to be made...

So far the most adjustment on a 'bought' set I've seen is 2mm, which wouldn't be enough...If I had the tools, then the ideal solution (though a lot of work) would be to buy the hawk one piece (which could just about be fitted without obscuring the loading) adjustable mounts, and cut them straight through the base horizontaly, then insert (weld) one long sloped shim to angle the whole thing forwards....

Edit: In fact with this one: http://www.deben.com/hawke-adjustable-r ... black.html - you wouldn't have to cut the 'one piece' horizontaly...you could just remove the adjusting bits, and insert a purpose made piece to give the correct slope...

ovenpaa wrote:Mr Smith, that works as well assuming you can get the rail off as they tend to loctite the rail screws, use a hair dryer to soften the adhesive and you should be good to go.

sign92 will keep that in mind.