The UK's Finest Independent Forum for Shooters and Gun Owners. Est 2010.

and a link to an "Advancing Farmer" target would be appreciated too...

saddler wrote:Quite a few such targets available to download online.

Another option is to use one of the free ballistic programs: enter your gun/caliber/scope height parameter data...then choose zero distance. They then display bullet height differences at 100m, 200m, 300m, etc

+1

Just make your own.

Mezzer

It's not difficult to boresight at 100m. If you have an AR or some firearm where you cannot boresight then try one of the laser boresight methods. These targets to shoot at 25m for a 100m zero make many assumptions as already stated in previous replies.

One of the most useful targets I use(d) is anything with a 1" grid.

In line with a ballistics program (there are plenty online) it makes zeroing a piece of duff (as long as you know what the adjustments are...its amazing how many dont have a scooby). You simply count the squares and click, works well out to 200yds (or as far as you can hit/see the squares). It also helps that if you own a scope with graduations (Mill dots, MOA hashes etc) you know what mag they are true at (and actually check it against an NRA target V bull ONO on the range) as this might help aim off or calculate clicks for wind or elevation which saves points/ammo right kids

Or simply a white sheet with a 1" dot (or bigger, as long as you know its diameter its easy).

The grid makes measuring groups easy as well. From memory there is something on the 6BR website.

The problem with the Bisley issue targets on the zero range is that they were designed for a specific type of ammo (and in fairness probably a specific rifle type).

All they will tell you is that "In Theory" your rifle has enough elevation on to go the distance with that ammo.

Straight away there are issues as many shoot 155gr bullets and not the 144/146 etc grain RG ammo.

The problem with ballistic programs is they need decent data input which usually is only correct for a specific condition. You may find your elevations wander with the weather. They are good to get you on the board but unless your really are the mutts, practical notes and saved data will really help. You cannot underestimate the value of plot sheets or other records.

You can boresight an AR dead easilly by just taking the upper off and sighting through the barrel. Its the relationship between the bore and scope that matters, although again its important that people understand the relationship between the bore/scope height/primary and secondary zeros/ the fact that a bullet is invariably launched on an upward trajectory to get anywhere (and as a result more elevation is gained by sloping the scope down towards the bore).

It also confuses folk that they actually have to aim high at short ranges (below their actual zero) as the bullet is still rising to meet the zero having left the barrel BELOW the scope.

So at say 50yds we would be aiming near the 200yd point of aim.

And while rests etc are a good dies for testing ammo, ist best (and more honest) to test in the way you would be shooting. Resting can bugger up the harmonics and/or totally changes the way in which the rifle reacts in hold, so if you shoot with a sling, zero/test with a sling. Its more honest although it may not actually show you what the rifle can do without you buggering things up. You would be surprised how much a zero can shift between pod/oil rig/4 ton block of concrete/a sling or even from shooter to shooter. Not many can shoot each others zeros.

Dunno why I wrote this, probably because it was all stuff that confused the hell out of me when I started out

These targets have to be calibrated for your particular rifle setup. But once you have confirmed your specified height correction then checking rough zero can be accomplished.

Variants such as scope height above bore & velocity make it infinitely variable so it is best to make your own if you wish to do this.

Maggot wrote:One of the most useful targets I use(d) is anything with a 1" grid.

In line with a ballistics program (there are plenty online) it makes zeroing a piece of duff (as long as you know what the adjustments are...its amazing how many dont have a scooby). You simply count the squares and click, works well out to 200yds (or as far as you can hit/see the squares). It also helps that if you own a scope with graduations (Mill dots, MOA hashes etc) you know what mag they are true at (and actually check it against an NRA target V bull ONO on the range) as this might help aim off or calculate clicks for wind or elevation which saves points/ammo right kids

Or simply a white sheet with a 1" dot (or bigger, as long as you know its diameter its easy).

The grid makes measuring groups easy as well. From memory there is something on the 6BR website.

The problem with the Bisley issue targets on the zero range is that they were designed for a specific type of ammo (and in fairness probably a specific rifle type).

All they will tell you is that "In Theory" your rifle has enough elevation on to go the distance with that ammo.

Straight away there are issues as many shoot 155gr bullets and not the 144/146 etc grain RG ammo.

The problem with ballistic programs is they need decent data input which usually is only correct for a specific condition. You may find your elevations wander with the weather. They are good to get you on the board but unless your really are the mutts, practical notes and saved data will really help. You cannot underestimate the value of plot sheets or other records.

You can boresight an AR dead easilly by just taking the upper off and sighting through the barrel. Its the relationship between the bore and scope that matters, although again its important that people understand the relationship between the bore/scope height/primary and secondary zeros/ the fact that a bullet is invariably launched on an upward trajectory to get anywhere (and as a result more elevation is gained by sloping the scope down towards the bore).

It also confuses folk that they actually have to aim high at short ranges (below their actual zero) as the bullet is still rising to meet the zero having left the barrel BELOW the scope.

So at say 50yds we would be aiming near the 200yd point of aim.

And while rests etc are a good dies for testing ammo, ist best (and more honest) to test in the way you would be shooting. Resting can bugger up the harmonics and/or totally changes the way in which the rifle reacts in hold, so if you shoot with a sling, zero/test with a sling. Its more honest although it may not actually show you what the rifle can do without you buggering things up. You would be surprised how much a zero can shift between pod/oil rig/4 ton block of concrete/a sling or even from shooter to shooter. Not many can shoot each others zeros.

Dunno why I wrote this, probably because it was all stuff that confused the hell out of me when I started out

Maggot said:

Dunno why I wrote this, probably because it was all stuff that confused the hell out of me when I started out

Thanks for taking the time to clarify some of these issues which have invariably confused the hell out of a lot of us in the past. Shooting accurately in real life is never quite as easy as it seems in the movies / computer games.

Mezzer

Mezzer wrote:

Maggot wrote:One of the most useful targets I use(d) is anything with a 1" grid.

In line with a ballistics program (there are plenty online) it makes zeroing a piece of duff (as long as you know what the adjustments are...its amazing how many dont have a scooby). You simply count the squares and click, works well out to 200yds (or as far as you can hit/see the squares). It also helps that if you own a scope with graduations (Mill dots, MOA hashes etc) you know what mag they are true at (and actually check it against an NRA target V bull ONO on the range) as this might help aim off or calculate clicks for wind or elevation which saves points/ammo right kids

Or simply a white sheet with a 1" dot (or bigger, as long as you know its diameter its easy).

The grid makes measuring groups easy as well. From memory there is something on the 6BR website.

The problem with the Bisley issue targets on the zero range is that they were designed for a specific type of ammo (and in fairness probably a specific rifle type).

All they will tell you is that "In Theory" your rifle has enough elevation on to go the distance with that ammo.

Straight away there are issues as many shoot 155gr bullets and not the 144/146 etc grain RG ammo.

The problem with ballistic programs is they need decent data input which usually is only correct for a specific condition. You may find your elevations wander with the weather. They are good to get you on the board but unless your really are the mutts, practical notes and saved data will really help. You cannot underestimate the value of plot sheets or other records.

You can boresight an AR dead easilly by just taking the upper off and sighting through the barrel. Its the relationship between the bore and scope that matters, although again its important that people understand the relationship between the bore/scope height/primary and secondary zeros/ the fact that a bullet is invariably launched on an upward trajectory to get anywhere (and as a result more elevation is gained by sloping the scope down towards the bore).

It also confuses folk that they actually have to aim high at short ranges (below their actual zero) as the bullet is still rising to meet the zero having left the barrel BELOW the scope.

So at say 50yds we would be aiming near the 200yd point of aim.

And while rests etc are a good dies for testing ammo, ist best (and more honest) to test in the way you would be shooting. Resting can bugger up the harmonics and/or totally changes the way in which the rifle reacts in hold, so if you shoot with a sling, zero/test with a sling. Its more honest although it may not actually show you what the rifle can do without you buggering things up. You would be surprised how much a zero can shift between pod/oil rig/4 ton block of concrete/a sling or even from shooter to shooter. Not many can shoot each others zeros.

Dunno why I wrote this, probably because it was all stuff that confused the hell out of me when I started out

Maggot said:

Dunno why I wrote this, probably because it was all stuff that confused the hell out of me when I started out

Thanks for taking the time to clarify some of these issues which have invariably confused the hell out of a lot of us in the past. Shooting accurately in real life is never quite as easy as it seems in the movies / computer games.

Mezzer

Mezzer, just dont ask me to explain without a crayon mate and my socks off if it goes over 10...just ask Mik Mak how thick I become when stressed!!!

Maggot wrote: Mezzer, just dont ask me to explain without a crayon mate and my socks off if it goes over 10...just ask Mik Mak how thick I become when stressed!!!

you can count to 12 on one hand, then use the other hand for how many 12's you've counted

I use this target for zeroing, plenty more on the website