The UK's Finest Independent Forum for Shooters and Gun Owners. Est 2010.

If you use chemical fixings you need to make sure the hole is cleaned after drilling

if there is dust in the hole from drilling then the epoxy won't bond well to the brick or block.

You can either blow the hole out or use a small brush to clean them.

lazareth1 wrote:Excuse my ignorance but where would the epoxy sit?

Inside the hole you drill for the rawlbolts.

Phone your FEO and ask their opinion or suggestion

I raised my safes up on the wall so the skirting isn’t affected, FLO thought it was fine.

I have to question the advice on cutting the plaserboard out and fixing to the blocks.

Reading the initial post, it sounds as though the house is a single brick skin with the internal being full timber framed and plasterboard over that. There is no reference to an internal brick/block structure If that is the case, that will result in cutting through the various damp proofing membranes and potentially casue some other major issues.

Lazereth1 needs to define EXACTLY what is there working from outside in. Is it a single brick layer and timer frame or is there a second internal block layer.

Polchraine wrote:I have to question the advice on cutting the plaserboard out and fixing to the blocks.

Reading the initial post, it sounds as though the house is a single brick skin with the internal being full timber framed and plasterboard over that. There is no reference to an internal brick/block structure If that is the case, that will result in cutting through the various damp proofing membranes and potentially casue some other major issues.

Lazereth1 needs to define EXACTLY what is there working from outside in. Is it a single brick layer and timer frame or is there a second internal block layer.

Initially I was talking about bolting the safs directly to the brickwork just on the other side of the plasterboard. The cavity I'm talking about is the small gap between the plasterboard and the brickwork with wooden studs spaced out. I have no idea if there is a brickwork cavity, i think it's a single wall with no cavity.

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lazareth1 wrote:

Polchraine wrote:I have to question the advice on cutting the plaserboard out and fixing to the blocks.

Reading the initial post, it sounds as though the house is a single brick skin with the internal being full timber framed and plasterboard over that. There is no reference to an internal brick/block structure If that is the case, that will result in cutting through the various damp proofing membranes and potentially casue some other major issues.

Lazereth1 needs to define EXACTLY what is there working from outside in. Is it a single brick layer and timer frame or is there a second internal block layer.

Initially I was talking about bolting the safs directly to the brickwork just on the other side of the plasterboard. The cavity I'm talking about is the small gap between the plasterboard and the brickwork with wooden studs spaced out. I have no idea if there is a brickwork cavity, i think it's a single wall with no cavity.

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New build, single wall no cavity, studs and plasterboard. That is, to me, a worry.

You need to find out EXACTLY what you have. Plasterboard will normally be fitted to either structural stud work or by dot and dab to block.

Take a couple of sockets off (with power off) and look inside. How thick is plasterboard, how thick arte studs, gap between studs and wall, then find a walto check if it is single/double skin brick. If you can see brick on te inside it is definitely single skin, if you can see block an dteh outside is brick, then you may have cavity wall. Measure from a window reveal to wall both inside and out - use that measurement with te other infor to find out what you have.

Do NOT cut the board away until you know what is there.

Polchraine wrote:

lazareth1 wrote:

Polchraine wrote:I have to question the advice on cutting the plaserboard out and fixing to the blocks.

Reading the initial post, it sounds as though the house is a single brick skin with the internal being full timber framed and plasterboard over that. There is no reference to an internal brick/block structure If that is the case, that will result in cutting through the various damp proofing membranes and potentially casue some other major issues.

Lazereth1 needs to define EXACTLY what is there working from outside in. Is it a single brick layer and timer frame or is there a second internal block layer.

Initially I was talking about bolting the safs directly to the brickwork just on the other side of the plasterboard. The cavity I'm talking about is the small gap between the plasterboard and the brickwork with wooden studs spaced out. I have no idea if there is a brickwork cavity, i think it's a single wall with no cavity.

Sent from my H3113 using "An application"

New build, single wall no cavity, studs and plasterboard. That is, to me, a worry.

You need to find out EXACTLY what you have. Plasterboard will normally be fitted to either structural stud work or by dot and dab to block.

Take a couple of sockets off (with power off) and look inside. How thick is plasterboard, how thick arte studs, gap between studs and wall, then find a walto check if it is single/double skin brick. If you can see brick on te inside it is definitely single skin, if you can see block an dteh outside is brick, then you may have cavity wall. Measure from a window reveal to wall both inside and out - use that measurement with te other infor to find out what you have.

Do NOT cut the board away until you know what is there.

Gotcha matey ill have a check tomorrow and get to you with confirmation

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Sounds like my sons house... 3/4'' plasterboard on timber studwork filled with insulation, then the outer brick skin, with maybe a 6'' gap between the plasterboard and brick skin.

We had great fun trying to mount a cabinet to that.!!

lazareth1 wrote: Gotcha matey ill have a check tomorrow and get to you with confirmation

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Two other points - what is the stud spacing? Either stud to stud or centre to centre.
Which cabinet are you considering?