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Best way to describe it, I think, is that the Zero range is such short range that the bullet is still on the way up relevant to the scope sight line. The secondary crossing point and therefore another zero is further out (still trying to find it but it's closer to 300yrds). Hence 6 mins down from 'Zero' to 100yrds.

And there was me thinking that it involved placing the muzzle on the target

Plumb line is USELESS in weather condition like today!-wind gusts/rotors!Use spirit level!And build your own A frame min.2ft high!Or take a big hammer with you-this one legged target "support" is a joke...You will pay 2£ or 4£ for "True minutes 7.62 RG" print,depends from the mood in the Range Office....Bisley is VERY special in some way,but after a while you will notice how far away it is behind the rest of the world

Again, thanks for the information and I can just hope for good ish weather when I go next week!

P

I would like to thank everyone for the information provided, had a successful day at Bisley, got the hired rifle zero'ed in the zero range and then hit paper on the first shot at 600, and the subsequent 92 :)

P

A few of us from my club went to go to zero range last Sunday....and was surprised that the National Shooting Centre only had zero range targets for .303, .308/7.62 and .223 calibre's, which was OK for me (.303) but not a lot of use for the others with 7.92 Mauser, 30-06 and 6.5x55 Swedish. Do they really only expect people with these 3 x calibre to use zero range? I wouldn't said the other 3 calibres were particularily unusual..?

I've never really seen the point of the different targets supplied. All I ever want to do is establish that point of impact and aim match at the range. Any adjustment for different ranges is then a calculation involving bullet BC, muzzle velocity, and rifle geometry. Just being able to track up the distance marks isn't a help unless your sights can't change elevation in a straight line or you don't know how much to move the sights for a given MOA change of elevation/windage.

The only sensible thing to use on the zero range is a black target patch with a vertical line through it.

You can use the vertical line with a spirit level (if you dont know which way is up or down) to get it vertical.

As has been said, expect the fall of shot to be low.

In reality you are usually better off boresighting the thing on a distant object (200 yds or so) and shooting on a screen on short siberia or century at 100.

This is usually close enough for the wind not to be an issue, to be able to see the holes fairly clearly with a scope or spotting scope, and to create a good datum.

Then, using one of the many free ballistic calculators work out the rough elevations and to get you on the screen and go shoot at various ranges.

This will give you your zero ON THE DAY WITH THOSE CONDITIONS at that range.

The important thing is to try and get your wind zero as smack on as you can and record it (or re-set the vernier on the sight/turret). This might take several attempts.

The need to physically confirm the settings is why you will see most competition shooters who shoot at different ranges getting together and shooting small confirmation strings on a fall back session before a major comp. Shoot 3 or 4, re-set if necessary, record, move back.

Unless you habitually mess with loads, sights etc this info is gold dust and will last you a long time, even if its just to get you back in the ball park.

An example, My Elcan is calibrated in metres, but I generally shoot in yards. As it goes when I am zeroed at 100, the ret can usually coincide with yards right back to 600 because it is designed for a fast 62gr load and not a slower 77gr load. It has no elevation markings, so I simply colour code the lugs on the elevation wheel and note the colour that coincides with that range (should it every need a tweak) on a bit of sniper tape on the stock.

Easy, simple, relatively fool proof (it needs to be). But the point is the data is from known tests. The number of times as an RO I have seen people struggling at 900/1000 because they did not work up and just tried to calculate it or went on the data on the zero targets on the zero range is....well....a lot...a very lot

I guess, in my opinion, one of the most useful pieces of kit on a range is a notebook and pencil

Along with a windbreak and a brolly....

Maggot wrote: I guess, in my opinion, one of the most useful pieces of kit on a range is a notebook and pencil

Quite.

And pretty much what you suggested before the above sentence is what was done on the day on Short Siberia.....