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Hi, does anyone know of an official importer for NEA (North Eastern Arms)

Ta

William Evans at Bisley had a couple of the .223 AR15 straight pulls up for silly money a while ago, Suffolk Rifle Company told me they'd ordered me one but it never arrived, I spoke to NEA and they said there'd never been an order placed with them. If you Google them the old Gun Star ad from Lantac comes up but they aren't selling them either.

Anything at WE is silly money and they still have a .223 and .22lr NEA, but I've since found that Suffolk Rifles are the official importers, mine is now going to SR for warrantee work, so fingers crossed....

Good luck with the warranty.

Let us know how you get on.

The importer is Shield PSD at least they were after we dropped NEA as the quality was so poor.
I see the new .22LR uses a Chiappa bolt :(

Whats wrong with yours?

I think it should go on my SGC as an 'improved cylinder' gun.
I know an AR isn't going to be a match for my bolt guns, accuracy wise, but it shouldn't be far behind.
But 12" plus groups @100yds with GGG is taking the piddle. I've tried lots of different factory and home loads, and can't get it consistently below 3.5 MOA

I've done the usual checks, cleaning etc, no headspace issues, nothing loose, crown looks ok, barrel nut tight etc, tried a proven scope off my 338LM, with mod, without mod etc.
But, I'm lost, I've never known a gun so finicky about loads, and I've had some dogs in my time, even my badly pitted 222 puts it to shame, I reakon I could shoot smaller groups with the 222 and NO sights (I'm going to try this )

I'll see what comes of the warranty work, if it's still pants, I'll use the upper, handguard and lower as basis for a custom build

Barrel extension fit to Upper has a big impact on accuracy as well as Nut torque.
Try a different bolt too.
If the chamber is all good and short of the crown being messed up I would guess the grooves / bore are not consistent in diameter. Its probably not been stress relieved properly (double stress relieved even) after buttoning and manufacture and therefore has a lot of residual stress, so when its profile is turned the bore increases in size due to the reduction in material wall thickness. Barrels tend to be thinner at the muzzle end so you end up with a bore that gets wider in that area.
Obviously your bullet is either going to get squeezed down the barrel or expand to fit (obturated) it. Thats all good as long as the ID of the barrel stays consistent, if it changes then you have problems.
Barrel temp will also effect stress and allow movement to occur, if not relieved properly. Hammer Forged barrels undergo massive stress, unless they are relieved properly then they will walk shots as they heat up from firing.
Get it lapped properly too.
Hope that helps.

That'll be why I've heard of people gluing the barrel ext into the upper on precision guns then. I guess if it is slack, then the harmonics are going to be variable too, and that would explain why what groups ok (ish) one day, is rubbish the next. If it wasn't going back under warranty, I'd be pulling it right down and starting with a decent barrel, get it properly crowned before fitting, and bed the barrel to the upper, the more secure and solid, the better. I'd also clean up the sharp edges on the b-e lugs, so it isn't scratching the hell out the brass on it's way out too.
But, it is, so I'll see what the outcome is.

Now, just in case, where does one get hold of a barrel nut tool and extension wrench ?

Make sure your barrel nut is torqued properly too. There are numerous recepies for this, the below is what I have found to work best. Correct torque will effect accuracy.

1.Clean the receiver threads thoroughly and apply anti locking thread lubricant prior to fitting the barrel nut.
2.Place the receiver in a vice block and clamp in place.
3.Using a standard barrel nut (other manufacturers may vary). Set a torque wrench to 35 ft/lb and tighten and untighten the nut a total of 3 times to pre set the threads. Now torque past 35ft/lb to between 50-75ft/lb until the nut lines up with the gas tube hole. Do not exceed 75ft/lb total torque.
4.After barrel/nut installation headspace should be checked with a reliable high quality set of GO and NO-GO gauges just to be sure.

Brownells sell all you need for this sort of thing, last time I checked tools are ITAR free too :)

I just load my sako 75 223 and shoot it , even with me shooting I struggle to find anything including super cheap ammo and military ball that wont go into 1.5moa or less .........