Tales from the shed.
Posted: Sat Jul 23, 2011 4:19 pm
The S&L has an adjustable cheek piece, which is basically two pillars that are locked up with grub screws, it works but means you need a key with you and I am sure to forget it at some point, add to this the cheek piece has to come off to remove the bolt so I decided it was time to change it.
After deciding where the jacking screw would go I marked the top and bottom parts to ensure they were aligned then bored a 12mm hole in the stock to take a tapped insert, the insert was knurled and then epoxied in and a short length of M8 Stainless added.
Next job make the elevation wheel this is tapped M8 and knurled. I only have the one knurling tool and I am not hugely impressed with it so I may well remake this part later.
Here is the insert, shaft and wheel in place. The masking tape is to keep epoxy off the woodwork. Next job bore another 12mm hole in the cheek piece itself and epoxy in an insert that the stainless screw will drive into and put the whole lot together. Annoyingly when S&L built the stock they did not keep the two mating surfaces of the cheek piece to stock parallel, so the insert in the top extends by a few mm so the wheel pushes up square instead of at an angle. You can see the grub screws in this image, next job is to replace them with a couple of knurled thumb screws. Pictures to follow.
The set height in this form is perfect for the Viking when it the bottom position, if I want use it I just add a couple of turns and it is good for me.
I do like sheds
After deciding where the jacking screw would go I marked the top and bottom parts to ensure they were aligned then bored a 12mm hole in the stock to take a tapped insert, the insert was knurled and then epoxied in and a short length of M8 Stainless added.
Next job make the elevation wheel this is tapped M8 and knurled. I only have the one knurling tool and I am not hugely impressed with it so I may well remake this part later.
Here is the insert, shaft and wheel in place. The masking tape is to keep epoxy off the woodwork. Next job bore another 12mm hole in the cheek piece itself and epoxy in an insert that the stainless screw will drive into and put the whole lot together. Annoyingly when S&L built the stock they did not keep the two mating surfaces of the cheek piece to stock parallel, so the insert in the top extends by a few mm so the wheel pushes up square instead of at an angle. You can see the grub screws in this image, next job is to replace them with a couple of knurled thumb screws. Pictures to follow.
The set height in this form is perfect for the Viking when it the bottom position, if I want use it I just add a couple of turns and it is good for me.
I do like sheds
