ovenpaa wrote:You can use hot air as an alternative to a naked flame, the hot air paint strippers work well, also a soldering iron with a clean tip applied directly to the screw head can work but is painfully slow and neither of these are going to be a good option for 'scope rings.
I also only use loctite is on the rail itself.
Ovenpaa et all
It is always to be carefull with heat. Hot air blowers heat large surfaces. Better perhaps is to use a hot metal rod in contact with the screw head (soldering iron).
Loctite threadlocks exists in 3 grades:
-#222, light; for assemblies asking for easy removal
- #243, medium, still allow looseningwiht more effort
- #270, for fottings not intended to be loosened.
They are threadlocks, little surface glueig efficiency.
Now, In the rare cases I had to use threadlocking (I hate even it), I preferred tp use adhesives:
- Loctite #603, rather fluid, for interferences less than 0,1-0,2mm)
- #638, little stronger bond and allowing more clearances between parts.
As it is for fixing mounts or bases, better to use one of those two, just making the parts to glue together, avoiding as much as possible for it to flow in the tappings..
Loctite products are ( ) expensive here and they are sold in 50mml flasks only. There are other products, sold in 20mml bottles, much, much less expensive. They bear the same last digits reference as the Loctite equivalent. The last I used is Vary/Bond and number is 16-38, equivalent to 638.
Hope this jelp.
R.G.C
