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I've been reading about the strange alchemy that is reloading.
And I have a few questions...
If you're not competing/hunting, is there any point? and if so, what it it?
Is it cheaper than factory ammo, once you factor in the required kit?
Would it be better to start off with the ABC's of reloading or the Lyman 50th edition reloading handbook?
Roughly how much does all the kit you need to start reloading cost?
What level of security do you need for the reloading kit?

Thanks in advance.
SoS.

None of my full bore rifles have ever fired a factory round while I have owned them. For me, reloading is a major part of the hobby and the cost savings are dramatic.
To fully realise the cost savings, you have to cast your own bullets.
The equipment rquired can cost as much as you want to spend. A single station press---there are several on E bay at the moment---will do all you need. Home cast bullets can be tumbled in liquid alox using an old plastic box---minimal cost.
If you elect to shoot a common pistol calibre such as .357 mag, then cases are cheap and have a long life.
Reloading dies can be found second hand with ease. A good set of scales is essential---again, on E Bay at the moment.
If you want to shoot prone rifle at the longer ranges, then the costs increase. You may have to buy jacketed bullets and powder consumption is much higher.
Don't dive in---study the subject and take all the advice that you can get from fellow club members.
Fred

It depends on a couple of things....cost and accuracy.

Cost:
If you're just plinking, and firing a couple of hundred rounds a year, then no, reloading would probably not be cost effective.
If you're shooting several hundred rounds a year, then it becomes more worthwhile, as you can produce handloads cheaper then factory, even factoring in the cost of a basic reloading set-up.
If you're shooting thousands of rounds a year, then definately yes.

Accuracy:
If you're plinking, and factory ammo is accurate enough for you, then go with it.
If you want to do anything competitively, even only at club level, you'll want the most accurate ammo available... so you'll need to reload to tailor the rounds to your gun.

If you are going to buy a book buy the Lyman.
I don't save any money by handloading/reloading. The money I save buys powder bullets primers. Reloading puts you in complete control of your ammunition. It's tailored to the gun and once the load development is complete it's a lot more accurate than factory fodder. It also gives you the opportunity to build cast bullet rounds. That does save you money. I only shoot my rifles so I have empty cases to reload. The reloading is what floats my boat. All my rounds are built using a single station press a beam scale a RCBS powder dispenser and an electronic powder trickler. Dont rush into reloading.
Read up ask questions don't rush out and buy kit.

Daryll wrote:It depends on a couple of things....cost and accuracy.

Cost:
If you're just plinking, and firing a couple of hundred rounds a year, then no, reloading would probably not be cost effective.
If you're shooting several hundred rounds a year, then it becomes more worthwhile, as you can produce handloads cheaper then factory, even factoring in the cost of a basic reloading set-up.
If you're shooting thousands of rounds a year, then definately yes.

Accuracy:
If you're plinking, and factory ammo is accurate enough for you, then go with it.
If you want to do anything competitively, even only at club level, you'll want the most accurate ammo available... so you'll need to reload to tailor the rounds to your gun.

It can also depend on the calibre, I'm pretty much a plinker as I don't compete at any level and it is getting to the point where I can reload 7.62x54r cheaper than I can buy milsurp ammo, especially when the cost of having it shipped to my RFD or the cost of fuel/time going to collect it is factored in.

It also allows you to reload cleaner ammunition rather than shooting corrosive Berdan-primed milsurp, I personally have never found corrosive ammo to be a problem as long as you clean correctly but some folks don't like using it.

Reloading for old service rifles can also bring life back to a rifle with a worn bore, especially if reloaded with a correctly sized cast bullet.It can also allow you to work up a milder load that is easier on an old rifle and can also give a much reduced recoil and a cast bullet will prolong the life of the barrel.

Again using 7.62x54r as an example reloading for it also gives me a wider choice of bullet weight than what is available weight-wise with either milsurp or factory ammo.

When I owned a Nagant I initially bought a couple of hundred rounds of Milsurp ammo. When I saw the mess it made of the rifling I cleaned the gun and never ever put another Milsurp round through any of my old girls. I just hand loaded for it.

Most has already been covered. If you're lucky you'll be able to pick up everything you need secondhand for a few hundred. A basic new setup is likely to be around £4-500 and a comprehensive one probably touching £1000, then the sky is the limit from there.

There is no lawful requirement to keep the reloading equipment, or supplies secured. However, if you're burgled and god forbid you kit is used in an illegal gun set up or even worse, the ammo is used to hurt/kill someone and it comes back to you, the police may take a dim view on you not attempting to make some effort to keep at least one of the components secure. The easiest way is just to put your primers in your ammo safe.

Reloading your own will give you several things, tailor made ammunition to suit your particular firearm usually at a reduced cost per round and the satisfaction of producing a superior product than the generic factory made article.

It will also give you a better understanding of your rifle and its capabilities.

Tooling up needn't be hugely expensive, Henry Krank offer a Lee startup kit for change out of £165.00, which will produce perfectly serviceable ammunition for the average shooter.

https://www.henrykrank.com/reloading/le ... r-kit.html

You will just need to purchase a set of dies for your particular calibre.

I would add, buy a good reloading manual such as the Lyman 50th and read it! lots of good advice and answers to questions you are bound to have.

Avoid load data from the internet and others, stick to published data either from powder or bullet manufactures.
ukrifleman

A good search on here will reveal much as this another done to death topic.

If you want to shoot rifles that there is no current commercial production of ammunition for, then reloading is the only option.

.310 Cadet for example.