ENS - The EURO's 2012 - FTR

[Watcher]

Tim,

Thanks,

I've ordered a cup from David; it was the gas burner I wasn't sure about.

W

[EagerNoSkill]

This is my hand based annealling process in progress.

Tools
Using the Machine Mart Gas / Head and the Shooting Shed Case Holder.

Timing
I first did 5 cases with tempilaq to confirm the timings by count and confirmed final effect.

Link
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YUzUsHx ... e=youtu.be

Observe
You will see the flame suddenly gets a "orange" overflow - that co-incides with the timing of the tempilaq.
I drop it into the water jar to stop any residual heat going down to the case head.

You can confirm the net effect by comparing to the new Lapua case - it has a similar colour and depth compared to the annealed cases.
I will add a picture of 10 random cases later

[rox]

This is my hand based annealling process in progress.

Nice demo - hand annealing is quicker and easier than I thought. I'm sold - I'm going to give it a go.

..

[EagerNoSkill]

Hope this come clearly enough

1. 3 cases on LEFT are brand NEW unfired Lapua cases

2. 5 cases in MIDDLE are the random annealed cases from the video batch I did (they had been fired 3 times)

3. 3 cases on RIGHT are cases that have been fired 3 times

Hope it clarifies - and the jpg should show how similar the left and middle cases are!

ENS

[EagerNoSkill]

This is my hand based annealling process in progress.

Nice demo - hand annealing is quicker and easier than I thought. I'm sold - I'm going to give it a go.

..

hand annealing is quicker and easier than I thought! :roll:

Well I can do it! :lol:

[ovenpaa]

Nice demo ENS, despite having the full on annealing machine I invariably find myself reaching for cordless drill and gas gun if I need to do some cases as it is so quick and easy.

[Watcher]

Guys,

Can I just check my understanding here regarding the annealing. I have one of Ovenpaa's holders on its way. I'm aiming for 650 degrees F which I achieve by applying the appropriate Tempilaq and getting an average of the time taken for it to melt? I'm wary of softening too far down the case so where do I apply the Tempilac? On the mouth of the case or on the shoulder? Is it better to use Temilaq in pen form or as a laquer?

Sorry to ask but I know there are some safety implications of getting it wrong.

TIA

M

[ovenpaa]

I use the tempilaq paint although I have the pen as well. You will need to get some thinners at the same time as the paint does tend to thicken after a while. (We usually have a few bottles of both here)

Paint it on the case shoulder and down the neck slightly. The good news is the annealing cups I make extend up the vase quite a bit to act as a heat sink and flame protector. I tested with MAP gas and a few spare cases once and you will need to get the neck glowing and very hot before you can get the case head anywhere near a dangerous temperature. I find the cup method incredibly quick to use and you will find you can dispense with the tempilaq after a few cases and then only use it as a reference if you have not annealed for a while.

[EagerNoSkill]

Guys, Can I just check my understanding here regarding the annealing. I have one of Ovenpaa's holders on its way. I'm aiming for 650 degrees F which I achieve by applying the appropriate Tempilaq and getting an average of the time taken for it to melt? I'm wary of softening too far down the case so where do I apply the Tempilac? On the mouth of the case or on the shoulder? Is it better to use Temilaq in pen form or as a laquer?
Sorry to ask but I know there are some safety implications of getting it wrong.
TIA M

Hi Watcher

I used draw a Horizontal line +- where the end colour discoloration "end" since that is by point (similar to a new case) ... then I saw a picture somwhere (from SPUD but I could be wrong) where the templaq was run Vertically from the neck down shoulder and over the body past the same line point.
Same affect - the tempilag changes when the heat gets to 750 at that point

Depending on the flame 7-10 seconds. Put the flame on the Neck - about half way down. Do the count as calibrated by the tempilaq - plus orange flame
Drop them into WATER when you get to the count point - it stops all the heat from going to base.

TIP : Get 15 OLD case you dont care about - TEST RUN

do 3 at 6 seconds
do 3 at 8 seconds
do 3 at 10 seconds
do 3 at 12 seconds
do 3 at 14 seconds

You will clearly see the difference - effectively once you hit 8 seconds you do have +_ 2 second buffer. The water drop is a safety buffer.
Do the 15 Test case - they will put your mind at ease and help you calibrate. You must seriously overdo it to get to the base (even more so if you use water!)

Last point - anneal before you resize

If you watch my video you carefully - do a slow countdown - I count to 10 - will see the flame suddenly goes orange past the case
You will also see I try to place the case +_ same distance from the flame start every time.

"Orange flame" = I reckon this is where the case hits a critical temp and less heat is absorbed and the brass reflect more - changing the flame colour.

[Watcher]

ENS,

Thank you very much for your advice. Could I just ask: what temperature should I be aiming for? You mention 750 F but I've seen 650 F elsewhere?

W