Playing with my new (Non Firearm) Toy Today

[Odd Job]

If I had a printer I would make magazine followers so that my Black Dog magazines would hold the bolt on the last round with my SIG522.

But I worry whether the printer plastic is hard -wearing enough to make a follower...

[IsleShoot]

Is 3D printing & its software something that someone with a reasonable amount of computer literacy could tackle or does it take some serious learning?

I do like the idea of a 3D printer, I'm often frustrated I don't have the right thingy-me-bob to fix or adapt something so seems to fit a need in that respect.

Also what are we looking at cost wise to buy and run a reasonable decent hobbiest 3D printer?

[andrew375]

Most people find that 3D CAD is easier, more intuitive, than 2D. The free CAD software is limited but is ok for most jobs where you dont need all those things like libraries of threads and fasteners.

When looking at machines it is material cost that is the issue. A lot of schools have 3D printers that now just take up space because they cannot afford to buy the materials. This is mainly an issue with those that use powder or liquid resin, both usually use a proprietary mix that you can only buy from one source. The powders are just cheap starch powder, but for the machine they have an activator added without which the binder (basically super glue) wont set. Most hobby printers use thermoplastic wire, either ABS or PLA, which is not machine specific and available from a variety of sources.

If the magazine followers are solid blocks, not bent sheet, then 3d printing in ABS would give good results. Even if they only last a few months simply run off more. Parts are made as a solid skin over a honeycomb, this reduces the amount of material and time needed to manufacture. The printer software will have options for thickness of this skin, even completely solid, and density of the honeycomb. Using the default settings for an UP! printer I have made several items of rail and rail based accessories and found them to be perfectly sturdy enough to support sling swivels and a reflex sight. In thin section the stuff is pretty brittle though.

[Morph]

Is 3D printing & its software something that someone with a reasonable amount of computer literacy could tackle or does it take some serious learning?

I do like the idea of a 3D printer, I'm often frustrated I don't have the right thingy-me-bob to fix or adapt something so seems to fit a need in that respect.

Also what are we looking at cost wise to buy and run a reasonable decent hobbiest 3D printer?

There's lots of tutorials on You Tube & free to download software, I was printing things in about an hour after assembling my printer (which took less than 10 minutes) I'm computer savvy but had never used any 3D creative software before.

I'm using a Wanhao i3 Duplicator V2.1 which I bought for £299 but you can get them for under £250 now from here https://www.technologyoutlet.co.uk/prod ... licator-i3 I have no link with the seller other than being a customer of theirs.

It's based on this platform https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Prusa_i3, here are some videos of the above printer https://www.google.co.uk/#q=wanhao+dupl ... i3&tbm=vid

1kg (300 meters or thereabouts) of 1.75mm diameter PLA fillament from as little as £8.00 shipped to your door, but you can spend more depending on manufacturer, colour, material etc. etc.

I'm currently printing improvement components for the printer itself as ther is a big community out there working on modifications & even the manufacturer is constantly tweaking the design. It prints fine as is but it can be made better.

I've also just bought some flexible fillament so that I can print some soft red dot covers & scope lens caps.

[snayperskaya]

It's a work in progress, you stick with your 18th century work tools & I'll improve mine

The beauty of Saddlers 18th century work tools is that they will still work when the power goes down!.

Progress is good don't get me wrong but one should not forget the old way of doing things as you never know when old skills may be needed, especially in uncertain times.

[Morph]

I've been playing with the settings & started to get some improved results with a few things.
Made some boing cable end covers, some .357 dummies to use as snap caps, working on a speed loader for my Alfa LBR (part of it is inbetween the 2 black matchsavers) & some match savers for 12G below

Progression was from right to left for the Match Savers, the loaded one 2nd photo & far left in the 1st is the best so far & I can even tweak the size to a specific cartridge as there are some slight size discrepancies between brands & loads.



Good job I've got a week off as I've got LOTS of other ideas

[Morph]

Been busy again today

Speedloader on the left is printed in 4 parts & clicks release & locked with a twist, also needs 4 screws, a spring from a pen & a .177 BB (Which are in the cap).
It fits my Alfa .357 spot on, not as quick to use as my Safariland Comp II's but it did cost less than 50p to make

The one on the right is a work in progress as I need to change the dimensions for the cartrige spacings & tweak the design so it doesnt foul on the handgrip while inserting the bullets into the cylinder. The idea is that you insert into the cylinder with the gun at a 45 degree downward angle & then pull down or sideways on the loader to release the rounds to drop into the cylinder freely.

Prototypes are printed in PLA but I will be printing my ones to use in PET-G or ABS for prolonged life & durability.

Next on the design list are some loading cylinders for my muzzle loading nitro revolvers:
Printed container with 6 funnel top chambers, 6 measured charges already prepared, remove lid, drop gun cylinder on top, turn over & tap the bottom, remove from cylinder, insert round balls & press home. Job done & no messing with multiple vials at the firing point

[Blackstuff]

[safetyfirst]

Awesome work!

[bradaz11]

Next on the design list are some loading cylinders for my muzzle loading nitro revolvers:
Printed container with 6 funnel top chambers, 6 measured charges already prepared, remove lid, drop gun cylinder on top, turn over & tap the bottom, remove from cylinder, insert round balls & press home. Job done & no messing with multiple vials at the firing point

someone is already doing loading units for westlake muzzle loaders. good price as it's including postage

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Powder-charge ... Sw9NdXtGJM