Reloading equipment storage

[BamBam]

GT85 is far better than WD40.

[Keithkilvo1]

Thanks for your input I agree with Ovenpaa on the WD 40 I have had similar experiences with it. The silica gel packets look like the way to go, I have a progressive press so the dies etc are all permanently fixed into the tool heads will get some large enough boxes to put the heads in and some of the silica gel packs.
Has anyone heard of a larger type bag like the impregnated sleeves you can get for your firearms storage, I would like to put one over the press as it is fixed to the bench to keep any rust at bay.
I don't want to put oil etc on my kit even though that would solve the problem.

[TomH]

Has anyone heard of a larger type bag like the impregnated sleeves you can get for your firearms storage, I would like to put one over the press as it is fixed to the bench to keep any rust at bay.
I don't want to put oil etc on my kit even though that would solve the problem.

Problem is going to be temperature fluctuations if the shed is unheated and then you go in and use a heater. Big chunks of metal will sweat. Surely your concern with oil or grease is the cases being contaminated? This shouldn't be a problem as only the dies touch the cases and you can box them up. Any bare metal on the press will need to be oiled or greased to prevent corrosion, an impregnated sock will be unlikely to cope. They are designed for indoor use with lesser temperature variation and hence less moisture.

[btshoot]

Problem with silica gel is regenerating the packs. They can become saturated very rapidly esp in warmer damp periods when temp reduces in unheated placesat night. You can monitor by comparing with weight of a new (regenerated) pack. An increase of 30% and the pack will effectivly be doing zip.

Now a positive suggestion!
For the past 4 years or so I have used a Vapour Corrosion Inhibitor. This is usually in the form of brown paper sheets that you can cut to fit storage box or even shelf and it will very slowly release a vapour at very low concentration into the storage space and will prevent corrosion on all common Fe and nonFe materials. you need to make sure that the air does not change to often but a normal drawer or cupboard will do. You certainly do'nt need to seal up to the extent yuo do when keeping damp air out. In fact damp air will arrive in normal staoage but so long as the vapour is still present (even at quite low concentrations) the rust is prevented. Because its a vapour it also "reaches the parts that a wiped application can't reach".

For a press etc just cover with a PC cover or similar and put a piece of impregnated paper inside. So long as the air inside only escapes fairly slowly; ie. draughts don't blow the vapour away; you should be fine. Do a test with a piece of shiny degreased mild steel onder the cover, over a 2 or 3 rainy day period beforehand to be sure.

You can also get small card board impregnated chips as well as the paper. Just Google/ebay "Vapour Corrosion Inhibiter" I bought some in liquid form way back and you can just refresh with a couple of drops annually but I have not seen this recently. If anyone finds the liquid please post a link.

You can allso get oil with VCI liquid in it to wipe on things but I am allways wary of this. When reloading; oil gets on your hands; it then gets on everything else sooner or later (its bad enough controlling the case lube). Also some of these oils have a silicone content which along with silicone grease and polishes should not be within a hundred miles of firearms.

This is my 2p worth of opinion, hope it will help.

[Keithkilvo1]

Many thanks to all bnz41 cam up with a good solution which was to use a Browning VCI gun cover to protect his press and this type of protection has also been recommended by btshoot so thanks for your 2p worth it was a bargain
I did see the protective VCI paper on the net and I think that with a Browning cover should do the job

[pumpkinman]

Best not to risk WD-40 ,I do my reloading in metal garage and "plus gas" in a spray bottle works well if you regularly spray metal components and tools , you could use other mix,s eg White spirit and light oil , but it may leave to much of a residue.

[btshoot]

Pumpkinman makes a good point about WD40
Any spray which removes rust will take off traditional gun blueing which works due to a chemical oxidation process (ie rusting).

Shoot Safe Tight Groups

[Lever357]

I have used WD40 for years on shotguns and never had an issue with it removing blueing from the barrels.

[Alpha1]

I also have used WD40 for years with out any problems.

[Oddbod]

Pumpkinman makes a good point about WD40
Any spray which removes rust will take off traditional gun blueing which works due to a chemical oxidation process (ie rusting).

Shoot Safe Tight Groups

WD40 doesn't remove rust.